TURKEY

Bulgaria – Istanbul – Ankara – Cappadocia – Antakya - Syria Pricey petrol. Fairy chimneys. Over helpful staff. The Middle East!

Arrived at the border point around 11.30am, passed two Bulgarian exit points before three Turkish entry checkpoints – one for passport control; customs and the final gate – all taking three hours. Into Turkey and petrol prices to match the UK, fields of sunflowers for literally as far as the eye can see and through the lively town of Edirne, with trademark Turkish blocks of flats imaginatively painted in different colours. A town full of character with the main road through the centre and to see the impressive minarets of the ottoman mosques, as well as the streets lined with bakeries, kebab sellers, and women in varying levels of Islamic dress, analogous with Turkey’s status as a country with one foot in Europe and the other in the Middle East. Paid 5 Turkish liras to sleep at a service station, along with over 100 trucks that were all gone early morning.

The amount of litter all around the site was rather shocking, but the services met the needs; although the toilets were less than inspiring, the NuMobile had its own (clean and working), the benefit was a place of offload waste and refill with fresh water. Onlookers seemed to marvel when people stepped out of this great big truck like thing to wash ones feet and street the legs. But sometimes the feel of fresh water on the skin is much more liberating than the discomfort of the odd stare of curious gaze. Could it have been the water being used was right next to the petrol pump? Maybe… just crazy tourists I guess…

The drive to Istanbul and the crossing of the famous Bosphorus Strait can only be described as hectic, four lanes on each side packed with cars, trucks transporting fresh fruit and vegetables and plenty of large HGVs all in a hurry to get through the bypass of the largest city in the Middle East. When looking at the roads, the scale of the city and the use of all parts of land is impressive - a reminder of a city of over 19 million people.

Crossing the Bossphorus Strait was a major milestone – welcome to Asia and continent number 2!

The pollution of the industrial area distorted the colour of the otherwise blue sky, but the drive along the coastline provided some great scenery; the last meeting with the ocean was in Holland, so the mountains and steep drop to the water was a sight for the overlander to behold!

After a spell of driving up mountain roads and through barren ground, stopped for a few hours at a deserted car park before being asked to move on by the police… concerned with safety…. Or perhaps wanting us to spend money! Because at this place there were no conveniences, just a quite place to rest. The next good place stop was to be found at the next service station where the Turkish custom of staff literally running around after customers got a shop opened instantly. Now approaching central Turkey and Ankara, the familiar stop where British Airways flights from Khartoum to London take a 2-hour break. Overwhelmed by the huge developments of empty unfinished buildings, enough to make a new city. The odd nature of this landscape was also in the fields and fields of underused large-scale farmland, a complete contrast to the rich farmland found before Istanbul. The development in the newly surfaced, yet empty roads added to the comfort of the drive, and the impression that big things were to be coming to this area soon. Drove past a salt lake, countless watermelon vendors and the Turkish government’s big earner - the journeys big expense – petrol stations.

The next destination was a slight detour into the region of Cappadocia, one of Turkey’s major tourist attractions and site of natural beauty. Bizarre rock formations, which have been inhabited for hundreds of years, are named “fairy chimneys” by locals, referring to the coned shaped roofing different in colour to the rest of the rocks. Other structures resemble wisps of angel delight or meringues, and this scene is visible for miles and miles into the distance. It looks like the moon’s surface or how a child may imagine it. You witness hot air balloons taking tourists to view this phenomenon that seemed the perfect way to take it all in, as well as by quad bike, motorbike and guided tours. However, the budget and nature of the trip afforded a walk around the steep and narrow paths linking what would have been settlements, and driving through the area. Two days were spent here.

The NuMobile was hospitably invited to stop in the grounds of an precious gems and gold workshop/factory/bazaar. This was a very comfortable couple of days to recharge and spend time in the company of well-to-do locals, get some clothes washed, and just have time to absorb the wonders and beauties all around. The staffs at this place were incredibly friendly and hospitable – Thank you friends from Coappadocia.

The next part of Cappadocia to be visited was a system of 9 levels of underground caves, which was the best air conditioning experienced yet! So cool below ground and the incredible depth, plus winding nature of the tunnels is like finding treasures of mankind right under your feet.

Throughout Turkey the attention was more than ever, which came as a surprise and from all around… stares in the supermarket, people asking for a photo, to the overly helpful person on the street being just a little bit nosey or should we say curious, was symbolic of the reaction received time and time again. Driving south through barren mountainous area once again could easily have been Mongolia, the roads became busier with loud and polluting HGVs, the NuMobile found a nice place to stop by barefaced rock mountainside and next to stream providing a priceless commodity - ice cool water! The (six) overly helpful staff had help from the English-speaking policeman and would follow people every step, leaning over ones shoulder and determined to do anything possible to help or assist… It took 4 staff to bag 1 corn on the cob!

The final day in Turkey, and the need to dispose of chemical waste at a local rest stop, provided the opportunity for what seemed a smartly dressed Saudi business man who spoke no Turkish, with his driver who spoke no Arabic, asking for change of a 500 Euro note. Torn between trust and scepticism, holding each others money and wallets stuffed with cash, we were unable to strike a fair exchange rate. However, it became very suspicious when in the end they decide not to change any money at any price, leaving one quite uncertain what they wanted exactly… The NuMobile had definitely reached the Middle East and its style of bargaining and banter.

The gusty terrain of Southern Turkey leads to steep mountain climbs and cooler temperatures. The flat fertile lands with basic tented homes were in abundance as the NuMobile approached its next border crossing. After the formalities of leaving the country, drove through five or so kilometres of no mans land, and the waiting point for literally hundreds of trucks lined up ready to enter Turkey from Syria.

SYRIA

Turkey – Aleppo – Damascus – Jordan.  Hospitable people. Beirut? Cheap fuel.

SYRIA Turkey – Aleppo – Damascus – Jordan Hospitable people. Beirut? Cheap fuel! High taxes for foreign vehicles entering the country, no credit card facility, a poor exchange rate, and not travelling with enough dollars, along with bureaucracy meant that the quiet crossing took over 2 hours. By this time it was dark and a very different scene, no streetlights, no rest stops and the occasional signpost in English, oh as well as flashes from every vehicle for the British positioned headlights causing glare to oncoming traffic.

After a partial refuelling (The NuMobile had taken all remaining diesel from this station) and given some curious looks by locals, found a welcoming gas station a few miles on, where the tank was filled up and able to rest overnight. 9 litres per euro! Wake up call was due to the rumble of curious police walking around and checking out the NuMobile, supported by friendly station staff popping by to offer a mixed selection of fruit free! To would be a casual one, spent relaxing and visiting with locals, then deciding to puch on in the late afternoon. Now the country had somewhat a different feel about it; many motorbikes on the road with 4 people on the back, the jallabiya outfit with red and white headscarves worn by most of the men, and Arabic style houses – this was a very distinct Middle East, but not the alarming vision offered by western media, just a desert strewn, vast and basic.

Further from Damascus than previously thought, and with the sun coming down hard, the NuMobile pulled into another welcoming petrol station – hoping for a decent and quiet place to stop for the night. This time being greeted with a cup of tea, and some friendly chat. The shop provided hummus, vegetables and Arabic bread to make a good meal alongside the cabbage and chillies given by the ever-interested children working at the shop – dinner was good tonight. Syria felt like a welcoming place, worthy of more time and attention, although, the desire to reach Egypt had now begun to increase, so pushing on was the order of the day. In the morning the NuMobile would really feel some local hospitality when the station owner would not take no for an answer when he asked to wash the truck – no money he beckoned! Thanks to the seemingly unsolicited help of his seven or eight-year-old helper (son) the NuMobile was looking fresh and renewed. The farther (station owner) still would not take any money, so a 2 Euro tip was slipped into the pocket of the little boy.

This service received at this station and without desire for extra money went a long way to give the Syrian part of the journey an authentic and genuine feel for what may lay beneath the propaganda of modern day Palestine. A final goodbye was said, and the NuMobile ventured on.

Travelling from Damascus to the border meant leaving a dusty busy capital city for more dust and desert shaped open land. The most curious thing about this region was the many apparent military zones, fenced enclosures with electronic grids and bunkers every 10 miles or so. However, there was not the obvious markings and signs for military activity, just monuments and pictures of President Assad and his father. Whoops, the NuMobile had ventured a little of course trying to find the way south, began seeing signs for Beirut - not the next waypoint as identified by the almighty – Map! No problems though, the roads were big, new, and with overpass points every 10 or 20 miles.

However, the quick turnaround still need the help and support of a few locals and guided by some locals – guess turning around in the middle of nowhere means you are lost and need a little help… Now moving towards Amman via an uneventful road into the Syria/Jordan Free Zone.

Stopped to peruse at a sheepskin vendor and nearly tempted to make a purchase, but after consideration of just how essential any of these purchases would be, decided on no extra goods (luggage) and headed onto the border crossing for entry into Jordan.

JORDAN

Syrian border – Amman – Aqaba – Ferry

A quick and simple entry to Jordan through the organised efficient border crossing, and the well-spoken staff that shouted out “Welcome to Jordan” at each desk.

Onto Amman where yet another car park was to provide a good nights rest along with the noise of traffic throughout the night. A wander around revealed a well to do area of the city with its healthy nightlife, and other signs of wealth with the expensive car showrooms giving Amman the feeling of a smart progressive city.

Feeling quite pleased with the feel of Amman it was time to spend a little cash at a nice looking place, one with chairs, music, waitresses – you know ambiance. The Middle East is a great place to order a cocktail – but with the alcohol – just a pure mixed fruit juice. A puff on the sheesha, and Amman had been done, as they say back home.

Continuing on south from Amman through some real desert roads, passing Petra, a site that conjured up many desires to detour for a few hours – but, pressing on was the order of the day! In the distance it looked bleak and dark as a dust storm approached, people walking the desert road seemed to struggle against the wind and particles filling the air. The NuMobile felt like a safe place at the moment, too big and heavy to be moved about much, although it would have been nice to be able to offer safe haven to the locals who were on foot try desperately to get to their villages – wherever they maybe – visibility was about 100 yds now.

Approaching a village it was good to see neatly dressed men wearing jallabiyas and headscarves, against some incredibly impressive scenery of vast cliffs of desert rock.

Jordan could be remembered for the countless number of speed bumps along the road, or was it just the roads marked for through (tourist and trade) traffic, although a very good way of controlling the speed, after flying over one in Amman they were noticed, at every village from Amman south to Aqaba. The reason “speed bumps” get such a mention, is because the NuMobile does not have the best suspension in the world, is very heavy, with weight not distributed well. Therefore, even the slightest bump in the road meant a good rattle and roll. Doors opening, stuff hitting the floor, etc – maybe the next bump we’ll be able to fly…

After passing numerous and redundant police checkpoints at each village, the NuMobile finally arrived at one that would ask a few questions and give the proverbial knod. Approaching Aqaba the NuMobile found itself on a military outpost – seems the road or signs weren’t clear – could it have been anything to do with people not paying attention to the road for the last few miles – the scenery was nice though amongst mountains near the coast.

The next major milestone was to see the Red Sea – Africa Approaching! Upon arrival gather all the necessary info about sailing times and fees, was lucky and well surprised to find out that service was only once per week and departed only 2 hours later. Rush-rush, quickly became the mantra of the afternoon, begging for any kind of help from the local security and port attendants. The NuMobile paid a little extra for its personal attention during loading on the ferry and the voyage would continue onto Africa.

EGYPT

Ferry – Nuweiba – Taba – Suez Tunnel – Cairo – Luxor – Aswan – Nasser – Ferry.  Snorkelling. Baksheesh. Temples. Intense driving. Africa!... and a campsite

The Sinai and Country number 15 was approached on an ageing Danish ferry to Nuwieba. Here a 10 dollar surcharge gave the opportunity of enjoying the tranquility and privacy of a cabin with bed and washing facilities and resident cockroaches!. Better than 4 hours in the hectic common areas with the sweaty smell, noise of kids screaming, and the stares and conversation starters of “where are you from?”

Boarding the truck in the loading deck offered insight to the nature of the type of travellers making there way on this route to Africa - cars with roof racks laden with goods carefully packed on, taxies carring produce, and big trucks with heaps of what looked like personal luggage, but most probably goods for trade and barter.

It was now 1am and time to face Egyptian customs. This was by far the most thorough of all the checks on the route so far, although the 3-hour process was definitely made easier by the helpful tourist police officer. He aided getting the new number plate for Egypt, checking the carnet and serial number of the vehicle. This was the first time it was asked for, and first time to discover its location.  For any IVECO owner’s references – the inside of the passenger door.

The next stage was five customs policeman inside the truck inspecting the contents, which took not much more than five minutes. They open this that and the other, asked a few questions, laughed a bit, and gave the NuMobile a swift all clear without any hassles.

Good fortune was obviously on our side, because if you had been in any of the 3 or 4 vehicles around, you would have had to empty all the contents packed in boxes and cupboards outside on the ground for further inspection, followed by a painstaking task of repacking. Again, most probably all thanks goes to the helpful tourist policeman (the fixer). A total of 12 staff members were involved in our process, for what seemed a disorganised chaos involved a great deal of running around and actual contact with police. Maybe the word of advice here is: If crossing at this border, know you will be thoroughly inspected by customs police, and they will investigate everything!

After exiting the port its time to reflect on the fact its now the wee hours of the morning and so peaceful, the tranquillity of this place feels so refreshing.

The NuMobile pulls over at the end of the promenade, having passed the town fast asleep, it was time to sit back and take in this milestone! the Sinai, not yet Africa but 5000 miles and less than one month on the road, sitting in complete darkness with the cool breeze of the desert, it does feel good to be here. Only the occasional dog barking broke the silence, just enough to remind that one is never alone in the desert, no matter what it seems like to the naked eye.

“Hello, do you need help?” “Argghh” It came as a real surprise to see a face at the window of the vehicle at this hour, apparently one of the owners of the nearby restaurant seemed perplexed at the sight of a big silver truck parked on their turf… After “jumping a mile” yeah it was a scary event! it was late and dark and in the middle of nowhere. Anyway, told this stranger its just a stop for a wee rest, and he wandered off on his way.

In the morning it turned out that because of the recent bombings he was suspicious, and after seeing that the NuMobile was no threat it was cool.

Waking up on the Red Sea was exhilarating, so after a quick paddle and bike ride, it was good time to have a few days of resort style luxury. After a short negotiation with a local tourist hotel on the beach it was time to hook up the electric and start to chill – Club Med style. The most alarming feature though was the lack of trade, there weren’t hardly any tourist about. Understandable maybe, because it was still early morning, but a noticeable fact all the same.

The resort offered a seemingly good discount price, including water, electricity, the use of the private beach facilities and free Internet during our stay. Add to this the wonderful experience of 90 minutes of snorkelling while approaching sunset and you just might conjure up visions of Jack Cousteau’s undersea adventures. Snorkelling amongst the tropical fish of the Red Sea, sitting out on the deserted beach, eating fresh calamari and the facilities to provide air conditioning in the truck (clothes washing seemed a bonus) and you can see why memories of Nuweiba are filled with pure bliss! Could have stayed at this sweet spot for a lot longer, but continued on in the direction of Taba.

The journey continued past more deserted beach fronts with accommodation ranging from the five star resorts of the Marriot, Hilton, Intercontinental and Sofitel to palm thatched Bedouin style huts, all waiting for customers. It was obvious all the development was a result of a not so distant cash injection, highlighting importance Egypt places on its valuable tourist industry.  The ever present heavy contingent of tourist police and checkpoints along all major roads through the country would just be the start of a norm for Egypt style policing.

Terrorism has had a massive negative impact here, there is now virtually no trade, people just waiting for things to turn around… It could easily rival any Mediterranean beach resort if the people only knew how nice and peaceful it was. Needless to say the only people seeming to take advantage are from a nearby neighbour – Israel. The drive through the Sinai desert late at night was quiet passing, only a few vehicles and road signs only to “The Tunnel” (the Suez tunnel) and Cairo, and amusingly to the “international border” of the unrecognised Israel. Unrecognised but still lots of their tourists at the beaches!

CAIRO Another roadside stop in the cool desert under a clear sky with countless stars. An early morning through the rest of the desolate terrain made more interesting by the beeping of other large trucks passing by and big friendly smiles and waves. By mid-afternoon the NuMobile would be traversing the infamous Suez, and officially on to the African continent! Now began serious road works and serious traffic, busy streets, big buildings, tons of people and the hustle and bustle of Cairo.

Where can the NuMobile find a safe haven for a few hours so one might be able to enjoy the city a little. The only reason to be in this busy city with the truck, is to locate the Sudanese Embassy – the last chance to get a visa. A car park on the Nile, near some major industry was where the NuMobile met with an opportunist attendant making every effort to earn some baksheesh (tip). Nevermind, it’s the local way and it was a decent and central place to base for a night.

A stroll through the busy city amongst the streets of souks, cafes and shops lead to the Grand Hyatt Hotel and a seat by the Nile to eat paella and enjoy some luxury before the real journey ahead – rural Egypt.

OK, the Grand Hyatt is not a normal overlanding type eatery, but sometimes on must take advantage of opportunity. Cairo has many nice things amongst the millions of poor people. It was refreshing to sit on the idyllic Nile, eating some quality food, thinking of those poor sods at home. Sometimes life is good and needs to be enjoyed!

THE NILE JOURNEY The next few days ahead couldn’t have been more different – roadside fuul and taamiya, small cluttered roads carrying donkey carts, going through town centres, markets and past farms, along the lifeline of Egypt and the heavily populated banks of the Nile.

In search of some tranquillity from the intensity outside, a market place closed down for the night, which had been given the OK by local to sleep at, was not to be. Police made their presence in moments and suggested moving on to sleep at the next checkpoint. After explaining the nature of the vehicle and a quick look inside (which impressed!) the knod was given to stop with advice to leave early for the market would be opening at sunrise. Not the best nights sleep – no escape from the humidity, heat and mosquitoes that inevitably found their way inside. Needed to close the windows completely – but its too hot – the dilemmas!

The next day on the roads of rural Egypt and an early start, leaving before 7am to continue through more checkpoints. Stop to rest for 2 hours while taking the services of a local farm to shower outside by the bucket. Reached the district of Sohag where police escorts were to guide the truck through and continue to do so till tried to find a place to sleep in the city.

The city of Sohag appeared from nowhere and was so well lit, modern and active, so when the police guided to a city centre street, and then outside a block of flats, neither was suitable for the nights sleep needed. After persuasion managed to leave the city, still under escort. Eventually at 1.30 am the police said goodbye and the NuMobile drove to a more peaceful roadside stop…. Unknowingly, still to be under the watchful gaze of the next set of 4 police who would sleep outside the truck till the morning. This “extra attention” did test ones patience, especially when in the morning your uninvited police escort keeps asking if your ready to go.

The longest driving day continued, with 12 hours behind the wheel, the pace is slow, checkpoints, detours, and rubberknecking (looking at the sights and scenery), meant a memorable Nile Valley day – because there is so much to see and take in. Peasant farming against rich ancient traditions come to a head. The times that have been seen here? The life that has consumed this land? Is it magnificent or squalor?

The final day before reaching Luxor was potentially to be spent under police convoy. The bag of tricks said to make a duress call to the British Embassy to find out why the NuMobile could not travel freely. No sooner the words “British Embassy” and a connection made, the OK was given to drive on unaccompanied. This made for a pleasant drive into Luxor. See what can be accomplished with a little ingenuity and patience. The question will linger, are you safer with or without a convoy?

LUXOR The City of Temples…. And the first of the real ancient Egypt sites to be visited and taken in.

Upon driving into the city the NuMobile found the finest hospitality at a home to the rear of Karnack temple (maybe 200 metres away). This family was kind enough to allow the truck to park outside and quickly became friends and place to base. Their hospitality extended to being invited into the house for tea, using their shower and even the power supply. The head of the household, whose business was security even stayed awake all night watching the vehicle and generously giving a padlock for the outside storage compartment.

An eventful day followed with a guided tour among the magnificence of Karnack temple by day and Luxor Temple floodlit at night. The east of the river hosts the temples and sights of life, the west for temples of death, guided by the sun rising in the east and setting in the west. To the west bank of Luxor are countless tombs which have been discovered through the ages, but the NuMobile now has another mission – onward!

A visit to the valley of the Queens and to be able to walk inside the burial tombs Pharonic Dynasty queens was followed by an accidental find of Hatshepsut’s Temple, which has been reconstructed to resemble its original form. Overlanding can be so much fun, your like an explorer coming across things for the first time. When something happens unexpectedly it makes you feel wonderful inside. The last time this happened on the journey was when crossing the Bosphorus Strait. This time however, it was in Africa, The Land of The Blacks, the NuMobile had just happened across the temple of Hatshepsut – The Female Pharaoh who ruled like any male predecessor.

Ok, maybe today is not a discovery for mankind, but it is a discovery none the less. Standing at the front of this temple carved into the rock face, looking out to the view of the Nile and the Luxor area allows one to see the sight which Nubian and Egyptian royalty had while overseeing their glorious land.

Place in to your imagination the picture civilisations that once were, travelling as pilgrimage down the Nile to reach THIS place of worship.

MORE NILE DRIVING! The drive to Aswan involves 10 more checkpoints, by now the familiar request asking tourists to join a convoy at designated times. Arriving at the checkpoint as one vehicle caused a little concern, time and time again… This time, after some reasoning a helpful 21 year old head of police took a seat in the NuMobile armed with handgun and music from his mobile phone, guiding us through the busy villages and to the motorway before saying goodbye.

Entering a sizeable town, the signs for Aswan seemed to disappear, or a wrong turn was taken. At any rate the directions of the locals took the NuMobile down a dusty uneven road, amongst the fields and to another narrow road at most 6 inches wider than the vehicle (wing mirrors folded in). Decided to backtrack at the sight of an unsteady bridge in construction and a 6 foot drop. Children running around the truck and jumping on the side was adding to the chaos, and when baksheesh was not given, stones were thrown. The road lead along another basic residential area, and with sun going down and this now very uneven surface and absolutely no idea of where the main road was, wondered if it was possible to make it out – Alive!

Thankfully the main road appeared, and onto more familiar territory. The situation could have well gotton out of hand, and the loss of some moulding under the side of the vehicle seemed less of an issue, than the screaming locals hurling rocks, while lost in someone’s backyard.

The next unwelcome situation found a side road off the motorway near a railroad crossing as an option to sleep. In moments 3 men appeared from the bushes, and said hello, about three minutes passed before a truck of 15 young men approached. All of a sudden the NuMobile was a circus attraction, and without any animals decided it was definitely time to leave – get the heck out of dodge! So the NuMobile drove on to the next service station with live security guards to rest for the night. Somehow this seemed a very close call!

ASWAN: Not long after the restful night at the guarded rest stop, Aswan was within sight, visible was the signs of a city, a suspension bridge, feluccas and tour boats travelling along the now wide deep dark coloured water lined with green fertile land, beneath the desert hills.

The final treasure was coming closer after an intense few days! On arrival in Aswan the first memorable sight was overlooking the city from high atop, past the Basma hotel. This would have been a great place to stop, but the strong winds forced a different decision – back down towards the city. In the city it was time to get out the bicycle out and do some ground level investigation. Seems the only place to park legally will be the government coach car park on the other side of town.

The NuMobile makes its first home in the Govt. Car Park adjacent to the Nubian Museum and the Basma Hotel at a cost of about $2 per night. 

Air conditioning now becomming an essential luxury, it was time to relocate to the more peaceful and better equipped services of Adam’s Home Campsite with traditional Nubian buildings, on the West Bank of the Nile. A great place to relax, take in the scenery and feel welcomed by Mr. Yahya and his team.

At this time the planning of the more difficult route south and to the final country was coming together. One route in for foreigners – by once weekly ferry. Cost of taking vehicle too high. Visa ready. First class cabin ticket purchased. Final day in Egypt before Sudan: 8am train from Aswan train station to Lake Nasser. 9am boarding of ferry for 3pm departure.

Time to sit back and watch the chaos ensue! 9 hours of loading such random things, an assortment of goods to be taken from the shopping delight of Egypt… Truckloads of Twinkies. Boxes of tomatoes. Blenders. Stereos. TVs. Jars of jam. Plastic stools. Standard class seating filling up as the pushing & fighting ensued to get in with all personal belongings.

Lunch aboard the ship amounts to fuul, 1 taamiya, and salad, as does dinner and breakfast the following morning. Perhaps a packed lunch should have been brought. Despite all the chaos of this, a third crossing, the real peace and reward is sailing through Lake Nasser for 18 hours amongst the islands wondering what was here before the flooding.

SUDAN

Ferry – Wadi Halfa – Khartoum. More fuul. More taamiya. Desert road. Sudanese time.

Arrival was another battle to get off the ship with belongings and to the immigration counters takes time. (There is another twist in this story about the immigration process – terrorist alert!) Finding a taxi with space going into town is a negotiation and again test ones bartering skills and forcefulness. Remember, all passengers here have plenty of luggage. Arrival in Wadi Halfa is just a short drive of maybe 15 minutes in a boksi car. The memorable driver with missing teeth and friendly smile, constantly is giving the thumbs up to the foreigners, and an English vocabulary of “good”…

With little to do in the basic border town of Wadi Halfa, best to take the first transport to Khartoum. Train set to leave the following day, taking 3 days to arrive often known to take 5, and bus scheduled to leave at 9pm…. Inshallah (god willing). Previous experience of Sudan only involves buses, not too bad, so decide to buy ticket, plus means leaving a day earlier……9pm turns into 10pm, at 10pm turns into 10 am bokra (tomorrow) in line with Sudanese timekeeping . T

ime to find hotel, time to find more fuul. Peaceful nights rest in hotel full of Sudanese and Egyptian travellers. 10am becomes 12 pm, more waiting around with little to do, find nice local policeman to talk with who takes the Sudanese custom of buying a drink for the guest to his country. The Sudanese hospitality rarely goes amiss.

The bus eventually leaves at 4pm now the following day. perhaps the bus and hotel staff have an agreement? One of the staff talks of a reason to do with the sun. Welcome to the shambolic and random yet delightful Sudan!

A 26 hour journey to Khartoum is by desert worthy bus filled with mostly Egyptians and their belongings packed onto the roof where the driver’s assistant bases himself. Front seat gives some level of relative comfort but space is tight, one passenger sits on water container next to driver and can only inconvenience gear change. The journey through the desert follows the train track, which is the only visible infrastructure.

It soon becomes clear that there is absolutely no way the NuMobile would make such a journey – only suitable for land cruisers or other desert capable vehicles.

Water stops along route were at fixed railroad checkpoints, of which their were 3 formal customs inspections, this involved using trough like water storage tanks and drinking from containers where the colour had to be ignored; thirst takes over.

Customs inspectors are keen to check the entire luggage up top and earn any money they can. Along the route the driver stops to aid a bus coming from the opposite direction, apparently Khartoum. Both drivers scratch their heads after opening bonnet of our own bus. Not sure what it all means, but confidence in getting lower, the desert is not a good place to breakdown.

A midnight food stop at a desert hut, only one choice: fuul, bread and water, and complementary cup of tea. Where is that packed lunch? followed by a 2-hour sleep/rest stop outside in the open desert, while driver takes his only rest over the entire trip. Maybe a health and safety issue in there somewhere!

Very difficult to sleep on this journey; space is limited, floor of truck/bus is so hot that people behind are removing computer hard drives from their bags and carrying them in their laps. The only means of air-conditioning is through the narrow space in a broken window. Nevertheless, the arrival at Khartoum is achieved… and on time! Respect to the driver – who drove through some of the most intense terrain, for 24 hours and with only 2 hours of sleep! Thanks to his playing/beeping of the three-toned horn at every given opportunity; the melody of this type of horn will never be forgotten!

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So that’s it – the overland story. 6000 miles, 47 days (7 day wait in Aswan) 3 ferry crossings. 16 countries. 3 continents. NO flights! Aswan to Khartoum was the only leg of the journey the NuMobile couldn’t come on… perhaps when the coastal road from Hurghada to Port Sudan is completed, the journey will continue...

For now, the NuMobile will remain in Aswan…. Nubia!